Nuptse Expedition (7,861 m/ 25,751 ft)

Mt. Nuptse 7,861 m (25,791 ft) is one of the high 7,000 m peaks located next to Mt. Everest and Lhotse and is considered the most demanding peak to climb in this height range. The peak is located some two kilometers south-west of Mt. Everest, with coordinates of latitude 27°57′59″ N and longitude 86°53′24″ E. This mountain extends east–west with seven distinct summits, with Nuptse I being the highest and most prominent peak seen from Gorak Shep and Kala Patthar near Everest Base Camp.

Nuptse was first climbed by Tashi Sherpa and Dennis Davis on 16 May 1961 as part of a British expedition led by Joe Walmsley, and other team members also reached the summit on 17^th May. Tashi Sherpa became the first to put human feet in Nuptse. They climbed Nuptse from North Ridge route which is known as the Scott Route now – named in honor of legendary British mountaineer Doug Scott, who climbed Nuptse via this route in 1979.

The North Ridge route is now considered the normal route for climbing Nuptse Peak, while the South Face route is regarded as the most challenging, featuring extremely steep rock faces rising to about 2,500 m. In 1975, a British-Nepalese expedition attempted the South Face but failed due to severe objective hazards.

Mt. Nuptse is a technical peak to climb and is extremely demanding, with steep terrain consisting of sustained snow and ice slopes of some 50-70°, near-vertical in some sections. Climbers encounter mixed terrain of rock, ice, and snow, as well as extremely exposed ridges that require advanced alpine climbing skills. Furthermore, Nuptse poses serious threats due to high altitude, sensitive weather conditions, unstable rock, avalanche risk, danger of serac, and other objective hazards.

Satori Adventures offers Mt. Nuptse expedition services with a high level of competency and strong safety measures. We have maintained an almost 90-95% safety record and success rate in Himalayan expeditions. This achievement comes from our meticulous planning, employment of highly experienced Sherpa guides, up-to-date weather monitoring, proper acclimatization schedules, and well-managed logistics.

Your personal Sherpa guides who assist you in your climb are certified mountain guides through the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) and the Nepal Government, and some of them are also certified by the International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations (IFMGA). In addition, we provide extensive training to our Sherpa guides in technical mountaineering, English language communication, customer service, and Wilderness First Aid, ensuring they are fully prepared to offer the highest level of safety and support on your expedition.

You will be served fresh and nutritious food at Base Camp through our Base Camp service, and hygienic, nutritious meals above Base Camp under our full-board service. You will also be provided with sufficient oxygen masks, regulators, and oxygen bottles to support a successful climb.

Mt. Nuptse expedition starts with a trek to Everest Base Camp. The climbing route of Nuptse shares same route with Everest expedition up to Camp 2. So, notorious Khumbu Icefall is your challenge and threat at the beginning. From Camp II, you cross the Western Cwm and reach to Camp III for the Nuptse summit through North-east ridge route.

The Mt. Nuptse expedition starts with a trek to Everest Base Camp. The climbing route of Nuptse shares same route as the Everest expedition up to Camp II (C2). From Camp II, Nuptse climbing route traversed to the Nuptse north wall where we pitch our Camp III.

Mt. Nuptse North Ridge Route Camps:

Base Camp: (5,200m/17,060ft.)

Mt. Nuptse Base Camp is the same as Everest Base Camp, and Lhotse expedition teams also share it. It lies on an actively moving glacier at 5,200 meters above sea level, where you will spend most of your climbing time. As the Base camp is same for Mt. Everest expedition, Mt. Lhotse expedition, and Mt. Nuptse expedition, it resembles a small village in the Himalayas during the main climbing season.

Khumbu Icefall:

The Khumbu Icefall is one of the most well-known and feared sections located just above Base Camp of Everest, Lhotse, and Nuptse and below the Western Cwm. It is formed when the glacier drops steeply from the Western Cwm towards Base Camp, creating a constantly changing maze of deep crevasses (as deep as 100m and 30m wide) and massive ice towers known as Seracs, some rising up to 30-40 meters.

Due to its unstable nature, the Khumbu Icefall is considered highly technical and is the first major obstacle climbers must overcome on this route of coming. Despite its dangers, it is made manageable by the expert Sherpa team known as the ‘Icefall Doctors’, who install and maintain fixed ropes and ladders to create a safer passage for climbers. This section is crossed in the early morning, when ice movement is at its lowest.

Camp I: (5,900m /19,357ft)

Reaching Camp I (C1) is the most technical part where you are to cross the Khumbu Icefall – like a real horror-chamber. Camp I is located at a wide flat area with endless snow known as ‘Silent Valley’ where you spend two nights for acclimatization. Once you are acclimatized, you move up to Camp II, and down to Base Camp.

Camp II (C2) - (6,400m / 20,998 ft)

You walk through the glacial valley known as the Western Cwm to reach Camp II. The camp is located in a safe and sheltered place on a rocky patch at the foot of the icy Lhotse Wall. The view of Lhotse from here is tremendous. We pitch our climbing camp here for the duration of the climb, with individual climbers’ tents for safety reasons. It also serves as the main acclimatization camp or Advanced Base Camp, and you spend most of your time here after leaving Base Camp.

Camp III: (6,800m /22,300 ft)

Camp III of Nuptse is located on a large ice field on the north face of the peak. From this camp, you attempt the long summit push, which involves an approximately 1,000 m / 3,300 ft of climb.

Summit of Nuptse (7,861 m / 25,791 ft)

From Camp III, you climb predominantly on snow and ice on slopes of about 40-55° and more in some sections, with short sections over rock outcrops. The final climb follows a sharp, narrow ridge that is often corniced and dangerous. The summit push is steep, highly technical, and quite long, as you must ascend about 1,000 m at very high altitude, taking approximately 12-13 hours to reach the summit.